For September's
Charcutepalooza challenge us "Paloozers" were asked to make either Pate de Campagne, Pate Gratinee, Pate Gratinee en Croute, or an English Pork Pie. I was immediately ecstatic because
I love pate. I know this to be true because this time I confirmed my memories with my mom. (Unlike last time when I was caught off guard by chicken livers that I assumed I would like but later found out that I had never liked.)
Side note that will make sense in a minute:
My mom has a H-U-G-E collection of books, and other things too, but we'll stick with the books. I've come to realize that she is trying to slowly, and without us noticing, pawn her stuff onto us. At least once a year during one of her visits she will walk in the door with a few books announcing, "I thought you might need these." I'm onto you mom. Just sayin'.
This month I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I found it in a cookbook my mom brought down a couple of months ago because she "thought I might need it." It was a cookbook called
Pates & Other Marvelous Meat Loaves by Dorothy Ivens. My dad bought it for my mom when I was a kid. I guess my mom was doing charcuterie before I could say it. In my family, we have a tendency to mark up cookbooks. We give our opinions, note our changes or suggestions, even "x" it out if it just plain sucks. In this cookbook there is a recipe for Pate de Campagne with a note in my mom's handwriting saying, "Very good." So that one was a given. Then, upon further perusing, I came across a recipe for a Raised Pork Pie. My plans were set, my butcher had been called and was handling the meat side of the situation. Then I realized...I was going to have a lot of charcuterie in the house.
There is only one thing to do when you have too much food; invite over your friends! We called up a bunch of friends we had been wanting to have over and had a pate pot luck dinner. The night before the dinner I made the pates.
I started with the Pate de Campagne. It called for a few different types of pork. It also called for calf's liver. I may have given a dirty look to the liver. It was to be wrapped in bacon. Happily I had just made 5 lbs. the week before so I was able to use my own.
I moved on to the pork pie. I don't think it would have been possible to make this pork pie any porkier. The recipe called for pork fat, ground pork shoulder, pork tenderloin, and bacon. Then the whole thing was wrapped in Canadian bacon. It was porktacular. Both the Pate de Campagne and the Raised Pork Pie were fairly simple to put together. The pork pie was absolutely more challenging. But all was forgiven when the smells started coming out of the oven. It was porktastic. I tweeted that I was running away with my pork pie into the woods. I considered it. Would people notice if I wasn't there the next day? Probably...sigh. So I stuck around and served the pate and the pork pie to our friends.

The next day I served the Pate and the pork pie with a crusty baguette, some homemade mustard, and some homemade cranberry relish. I served the leftover aspic that I couldn't get into the pork pie on the side. Our friends were patient as I took a bunch of photographs before we ate. Everyone seemed to like what I had made. I did too. It took me back to our old kitchen table when I was a kid. Sitting there with my mom and some good crackers, cheeses, olives, and a couple of Pates. Happily my husband preferred one and I preferred the other, so there were going to be no quarrels about the leftovers.
The recipes will be at the bottom of the post, but now we are going to get to what has become the real challenging part of Charcutepalooza for me. Not just this time, but reccurring throughout the entire year of Charcutepalooza. I have become quite comfortable with the making of the Charcuterie. However,what I have had the most trouble with is the photography. It has been the thorn in my side, my Achilles heel. One would think that since I was an art major I would be able to whip out some fine artsy fartsy pictures, but that seems to not be the case. Don't get me wrong, I know the principals of a good composition. I know about asymmetry, large, medium, and small spaces, leaving a place for the eye to rest, movement, repetition, color, light, blah blah blah. I know a good composition when I see it. What I have trouble with, and have always had trouble with, is setting up a good composition on my own. This has come back to haunt me during this past year. Food photography vexes me... mocks me. But I have made a decision to overcome my inability to make my food look as good as it tastes. Of course I choose to start this on the challenge where what I am shooting is basically meatloaf with its fancy pants on, but still, I will prevail! I will own this Pate!!

I literally shot the Pate every day for a week. I started to feel like Sam I Am from Green Eggs and Ham:
...And I will shoot it in the rain.
And on a wooden board all plain.
And on a cloth I'll put that meat,
I'll do this all before I eat.
And with some herbs and with some flair,
I will shoot it everywhere.
I will get a good picture you see,
I will get it if it kills me.
And I think I got some pretty good shots. They aren't as good as some of the pictures I have seen for these challenges. But they are some of the best I have taken. I think I improved a little bit.
Raised Pork Pie. See the aspic in the bowl? When I was making it Naiya walked in and asked me what I was doing. When I told her she asked the obvious question: "What's aspic?" I explained that it was essentially a meat jello. After giving the age appropriate "stank face," she smelled it and said that it reminded her of something. I sniffed and agreed. She said it was like that chicken and wine dish I make in the winter. Well what do you know! She was right. It smelled just like Coq au Vin. She's got a good nose on her.
But I have digressed. I didn't take a lot of shots of the pork pie because it was mostly consumed at the pot luck. So the following week I really focused on the Pate. Here are my best shots.
This was my, "Hey look I'm playing with effects!" shot.
On the windowsill
This was my favorite shot. Plus it was on this day that I found my most favorite way to eat Pate was on crusty bread, with good mustard, topped with Food In Jars'
Tomato Jam.
Then I went outside and spent some time "styling" my food. I really liked this shot too.
I really enjoyed this month's challenge. I knew I had a some good recipes so I got to focus on the other part that I have been challenged by. The Pate was great because its appearance was something I could count on to stay the same for the whole week while I played with it and took my time shooting it. There is always room for improvement, but I'm satisfied with the progress I made this month.
The recipes:
Pate de Campagne
Ingredients:
1 lb. ground pork shoulder
1/2 lb. ground veal
1/4 lb. fresh pork fat (preferably from the loin)
1/2 lb. pork or beef liver
1/4 cup Cognac
2-3 slices firm, white, home-style bread, crusts removed
1/2 cup milk
1 egg
2 1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. mace
1/8 tsp. allspice
1/2 tsp. thyme
1/8 tsp. rosemary, finely crumbled
2 cloves garlic, minced
Bacon slices for top and bottom of loaf
2 Tbs. chopped parsley
Parsley sprigs or watercress to garnish
Directions:
Put the ground pork and veal into a large mixing bowl. Dice the pork fat into small cubes, 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The fat sticks together quite a bit but will separate when it is mixed with the other meats. Pat the liver dry with paper towels, trim off any fat and membranes, and cut into 1/4 inch dice. Mix the fat and liver with the pork and veal. Pour in the Cognac and mix again.
Crumble or carefully tear the bread into coarse crumbs, to make 1 cupful. Allow the crumbs to soak in the milk for a few minutes and then mix with the meats.
In a small bowl, beat the egg lightly and add all the seasonings and the garlic. Add to the contents of the large bowl and mix thoroughly, first with a wooden spoon; then, when the mixture dries somewhat, with the hands.
Put a layer of bacon strips on the bottom of an 8-cup loaf pan and pack in the loaf mixture, pressing into the corners and patting to avoid air holes. Mound the loaf slightly and cover with bacon slices.
Bake, uncovered, in a 350 degree oven for 1 to 1 1/4 hours or until loaf has shrunk from the sides of the pan and juices run clear, not pink or opaque, when loaf is pricked and pressed. Remove the loaf from the oven and allow it to cool in the pan. Do not pour off the juice; a lot of it is fat, but underneath is good meat extract. When the loaf is completely cool, cover and refrigerate overnight.
To unmold, run a knife around the edge of the loaf, hold the pan briefly in an inch or so of hot water, and slide the loaf out onto a platter or cutting board, right side up, to show the browned top. Trim the hardened fat from the sides, carefully preserving any jellied or liquid juices. Spoon juices over the loaf. Serve well sprinkled with chopped parsley and surrounded with lots of parsley sprigs or watercress, or serve already sliced. Makes about 16 half-inch slices.
Raised Pork Pie
Ingredients:
1 recipe for pastry (enough for a 9 inch round crust)
1/4 lb. fresh pork fat, in 1/2 inch cubes (from the loin or fresh ham)
1 1/2 lbs. lean pork, in 1/2 inch cubes
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. ground pork shoulder
4 slices lean bacon, diced
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. grated lemon rind
1/3 cup Cognac
1 Tbs. lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. sage, crumbled
1/2 tsp. marjoram
1/2 tsp. savory, crumbled
1/8 tsp. mace
1 egg lightly beaten with 1 Tbs. milk for glaze
1/2 - 3/4 lb. thinly sliced Canadian bacon
pickled walnuts, split lengthwise (optional)
1 can ready-to-use chicken broth (13 3/4 ounce size)
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
2 Tbs. Port
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Directions:
Make the pastry and refrigerate for at least 1/2 hour.
In a heavy skillet, render the pork fat just enough to oil the pan slightly. Add the diced pork and cook, stirring, until the pork has lost its pink color and is barely beginning to brown. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and remove with a slotted spoon to a large mixing bowl. Allow to cool.
Add the ground pork, diced bacon, parsley, and lemon rind to the mixing bowl and mix lightly.
In a small bowl, combine the Cognac, lemon juice, salt, sage, marjoram, savory, and mace. Add to the meat mixture and mix well.
Butter a long 8 cup loaf pan (13" x 4 1/2" x 2 1/2") To make a kind of a sling for the loaf so it can be lifted out of the pan when it is cooked, cut a piece of heavy foil to cover the bottom and both long sides of the pan, with a 3-inch overhang on each side. Fit the foil into the pan and butter it. Shake a little flour around the pan to lightly coat foil and small ends of the pan. Discard excess.
Reserve 1/4 of the pastry for the top of the loaf. Roll out the other three-fourths to a thickness of 1/8 to 1/4 inch, and cut a piece roughly the same size as the foil. Drape it over the rolling pin and unroll it into the pan to cover the foil, being careful not to stretch it or make any holes. Make pieces of pastry to fit the ends of the pan, allowing for a 1/2-inch overlap. Fit the end pieces into the pan, sealing the overlap with egg glaze. Roll the pin over the rim to trim off excess pastry.
Line the bottom and all four sides of the pastry with the Canadian bacon. Gently pack 1/2 the meat into the pan, pressing and patting into corners. Place pickled walnuts, if used, in a line down the middle. Add the rest of the meat, doming it slightly. Fold the edges of the pastry over the edges of the loaf, trimming corners to avoid excess thickness.
To make the top, roll out the reserved quarter of the pastry to 1/8 to 1/4-inch thickness and trim to 6 1/2 by 15 inches. Paint the edges of the pastry in the pan with the egg glaze, drape the pastry over the rolling pin, and unroll it over the loaf, pressing the edges to seal. Trim off excess. Cut a hole 1/2-inch in diameter in the center of the loaf. Roll out pastry scraps a little thinner than the rest, and cut out strips, leaf shapes, circles, or crescents, paint them on the bottom with egg glaze, and stick them on for decoration. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork or the dull side of a knife, and paint the entire top with glaze.
Set a small metal funnel, or one made of foil, into the hole in the top, to accommodate juices that bubble up during cooking. Set in the middle of a pre-heated 375 degree oven. Turn oven down to 350 degrees immediately and cook for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, or until loaf is beautifully brown and the juices that can be seen in the funnel are clear, not pink or opaque. Remove from the oven and allow to stand for 2 hours.
To make aspic, cook chicken broth over high heat for about 5 minutes to reduce it to 1 1/2 cups. Moisten the gelatin with the Port and lemon juice and add to the broth, stirring until dissolved. Set the container of aspic in a basin of ice and water and cool, stirring, until it is the consistency of egg whites.
Pour the aspic into the loaf through the funnel, a little at a time, waiting for each addition to be absorbed before adding more. This operation can be done over the period of an hour or so while you are doing other things. The loaf has to cool to room temperature before refrigerating anyway. Try to get in about half the aspic. When the loaf has come to room temperature, refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. When the loaf has been thoroughly chilled, bring the remaining aspic back to egg white consistency and try to get more in the loaf through the cleaned funnel, tipping the pan from end to end each time to spread aspic throughout. This rater tiresome step is to fill with aspic the spaces left by the shrinkage of the loaf during cooking. Leftover aspic can be chilled and served chopped with the loaf. Chill the loaf another two hours or longer, and take it out of the refrigerator an hour before serving.
To unmold, run a knife between loaf and pan at the small ends, immerse pan in a few inches of hot water for a moment or two, and carefully lift out, using the foil overhangs as handles. Slide off the foil onto a platter or board and serve in half-inch slices. You will have about 15 half-inch slices if you use the 9-by-5-by-3 inch pan or about 22 half-inch slices from the longer pan.